Kushe Kushe Tenki 4 Kam!! (Creole) Welcome, Welcome, thanks for coming!



At the Liberia/ Sierra Leone broader

It was early in the morning when we arrived in Freetown and the city was asleep, the perfect time to sleep and rejuvenate for the day ahead. Given it was a weekend visit; I wanted to make sure I saw all I could before returning to Monrovia (though internally I knew that was not possible). Fortunate for us we did not have to pay for lodging, which is quite expensive.

After a well-prepared breakfast, we left for a tour around the city.  Most of the attractions are centralize thus; all you need are very strong legs and water.  We begun the tour at the government buildings; I did not find the structures appealing than again the British are not know for their architectural abilities. 

After which we found our way to the oldest tree in Sierra Leone. According to the story, the tree was there when the Portuguese arrived!! Implying the tree may well be over 500 years old.  

Next to the tree is the national museum, don’t expect the Smithsonian, but it is cozy and has a lot more artifacts compare to the museum in Liberia. The museum guides were knowledgeable, and interestingly majority of the myths and believes about culture and tribes were very similar to Liberia’s.

You don’t have to pay, but it is expected that you make a donation. The tour was carried out in two phases. The 1^st, focus on the traditional believes and the 2nd focus on past, and current history.   Be aware, one of the guides might tell you to hand over your donation, though it is clearly stated that all contributions should be placed in the donation box! I did not take that well, the museum received its donation, but he did not get the tip we had allocated for him. 

After the cultural tour, we walked to the bank, and we had problems getting Leones (money use in Sierra Leone), due to the fact we had dirty US dollars from Liberia. In Liberia, they don’t care how the money looks, as long as it is money, which is very bad. It is best to send a local to change your money, because if you have dirty money they will not change it in the banks, which I respect. Though at the time it was upsettingJ. We finally got some Leones, and headed out to the market. Things were fairly cheap, so it was fun shopping!!!

After which we headed to Fourah Bay College, founded by Church Missionary Society in 1827, for the purpose of training Africans as schoolmasters, catechists and clergymen. It is one of the oldest universities in Africa, and it was known for producing leaders from all around Africa. Since the war, the university have not been able to revert to its pre-war status. However, classes are back in session and students are going about business as usual. The view from the campus overlooking Freetown is beautiful. I could only imagine what it was like to be a student during its peak years.

View from the top of the college

After getting a bit of rest, we visited the Aderdeen Strip ( a must see), lined with nightclubs, beaches bars, restaurants, etc. The beach is clean, with vast things to do and places to eat.  After acquiring a few pieces of art, I wanted a smoothie so we stopped at a pastry shop call Town bakery (their smoothies were not good). Don’t go there!!



The next day we arrived at Aqua Country Club after previous arrangements were made for a boat rental and guide to Bunce Island. Bunce Island was the largest British slave castle on the Rice Coast of West Africa. Founded around 1670, it exported tens of thousands of African captives to the west.  Unlike, Goree or Cape Coast, it is still under development, but once it is restored it will be one of Sierra Leone top tourist attractions.  

Once we arrived at the dock the tour guide and the boat was made available. We used a company, but it was arranged through the owner, therefore I am not quite familiar with the process. However, we paid 200 United States Dollars to charter the boat and get the tour. The ride to the Island was beautiful, it is an opportunity to see the city from a different perspective. 

I luv these guys...





Welcome to BUNCE

After 45 minutes of sailing we arrived on the Island. If you been to Goree or Cape coast, do not go with high expectations. As mentioned before the Island is under renovation, and it is not exactly a priority given the post-war country has other critical issues to address. Once on the Island it is exclusive yours, and lucky us we had a knowledgeable tour guide.  It took us about an hour and half to complete the tour. On our way back we were so tired, but had gain added knowledge. One of my favorite things was the carving name tree, and the rocks I found. It was good we drove to Sierra Leone, bringing those rocks on the plane would have been interesting.







The Name Tree

We had time to roam around the city after Bunce Island. Freetown is a city in the shape of a hill. So the further up the hill you get the closer to the peak you get. The closer to the peak you own property the wealthier you are. We drove as close to the peak as we could, and had to get out of the car and walked as it was too steep. We were close to the peak, but we did not make it to the top (I had lazy bums with me). I am sure next I will make it to the peak!

I almost made it to the top

It just happened the weekend we arrived there was an international arts festival taking place, which  they have frequently, so lookout for it. It is a great way to find unique items from all over africa.



What a day.........

Thanks to my buddy who resides in Freetown, and knows his way around, I was able to club hop and it was an experience to remember. The first club we entered, before I could sit down my iPhone got stolen and I was piss off!! Liberians always say Sierra Leoneans are thieves, it is bad to generalize, but after my experience, I am not sure we should stop generalizing. They don’t just have sticky fingers!! They have quick fingers too!! 

I don’t let bad moments ruin my plans, so we went to the few other clubs. My favorites were Office and Old School. The music and the crowd were good, and we ended the night with me getting in the car at 6am and driving back to Monrovia. It was a good trip; I wish I had stayed longer.

Sierra Leone seems to be recovering from the war faster than Liberia based on my observations. The infrastructures have improved greatly, as well as job and education attainment. Two different countries, different context, but our shared borders and experience of war will keep us forever bond.   However, why is Sierra Leona progressing faster than Liberia? What can we learn from their speedy recovery?

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Kpatawee Water Falls

Limited access to roads in Liberia, many find it difficult to leave Monrovia. Thus, there are many undiscovered sites waiting to be explore. One of which is the KPWATAWEE waterfall located in Gbarnga. An undiscovered gem, if properly invested in could be one of the best tourist attractions in West Africa. The first time I visited Kpatawee it was a hot, sweaty and a tiring day. I did not spend more than an hour there. However, I was taking away by the site, and promised to return to savoy in all that it has to offer.

1st time at Kpatawee (dry Season)

With limited recreational activities in Monrovia, I needed an opportunity to return to Kpatawee. Fortunate for me, my birthday is during the raining season. Liberia has two seasons, which is dry and raining season. During dry season the temperature can exceed 90 degrees. There is a saying around Liberia to explain exactly how hot it gets, many say dry season is the season during which one can take sweating showers. Literally, you are sweating while taking shower because it is so hot! During, raining season the temperature drops due to the heavy rain, thus the air tend to be cooler.

So, I was ecstatic when I decided to plan my birthday outside of Monrovia. Many of my associates and friends were not as excited partly because it was not the norm for them to leave Monrovia, and it was four hours drive away from civilization. However, I convinced enough people to come, and celebrate my birthday with me. Which in hindsight many did not regret.

We left Monrovia around 9am, arrived at Kpatawee at 1:30pm. It was little longer because we stopped quite a few times to take pictures, buy food, socialize with the locals, and due to careless driving we got into and accident. Fortunate for us no one was hurt, and we were able to continue with the trip.

The road leading to Kpatawee is currently under construction; therefore the last stretch is gravel. I will advice anyone going there do not drive too fast, the manner in which you drive on a coal tar road is not the same as a gravel road. If you speed most likely your tires will be pull by the gravel, which will lead to disaster. On a happier note we arrived at Kpatawee in one piece and every one was excited.

This accident did not stopped us! It just delayed us:)

We drove the car like this until we got back to Monrovia

Purchasing snacks...corn never look so good:)

Bathroom break, Liberian style

How high can we go!!! the locals thought we were crazzzyyy.

During the dry season the waterfall is nice, but during the raining season it is amazing! Driving towards the fall the scenery made me feel I was in a safari, and at any moment an elephant will be soaring excitedly. The massive green pasture of land spread penetrating the mountains behind the falls, inviting you in to a soundless world. Literally soundless because there is no phone signal once you branch off the gravel road to Kpatawee. Upon arrival you have to pay (100LD) per person for the day. There are no amenities available in the area, if you intend to spend the day, take all that you need (food, games, etc).  They have benches and few huts to sit and relax. However, you need to bring something to cover up, as there are ants lurking around, due the fact the area is not care for frequently.

Once inside you are instantly drawn to the gushing sound of water flowing between rocks. I can attest, the first thing anyone will like to do is to go directly into the water for a swim, except for the few greedy ones among your group who will opt for the foodJ.

Picnic time!

That rock was hot!!!

So beautiful.....

We spend about an hour exploring the Fall. Using different routes to get to the highest peak of the Fall, it was not possible. However, we were able to get high enough to enjoy one of godsend to Liberia. After which we begun to play a game of Ludo, but could not complete as our conversation was foster by the beauty of where we were.

We almost got to the top
The water felt so good, but be careful if you have sensitive skin like me.
(water is dirty)

Ma petit soeur je me manque

They say when you have something you don’t know it's value, until it is gone. With the influx of external forces into Liberia, if we do not start taking care of what we have we might lose it to others. Apart from being a tourist attraction, the force the water flowing down from Kpatawee produces could be utilized to supply electricity to the surrounding towns, maybe all of Gbarnga.

There is a possibility for mass agriculture cooperatives to be developed in the local communities in which  specialization production could commence. Electricity and sustain source of food are two essential commodities that will enable many Liberians to potentially be self-reliant. So, my people tell me why a property own by our government is so under utilize?

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Refuge

At the age of three years, we left Monrovia to seek refuge in Lofa from the war.  My mother, aunt, cousin, and I walked for four hours to get there. Considering our age at the time, they did most of the walking for which today I am grateful for.  We arrived welcomed by grandmother’s family. My great grandmother Gayduo, several grand aunts, uncles, cousins, etc. Given my age at the time, I have limited memory of my time spent there.  However, the little I do remember intrigued me to return for two reasons. 1) To prove my memories right after so many years of living outside of the country and 2) learn more about the place my extended family call home.

On our way to Fessibu

Fessibu, Lofa County

Yes! I returned to the place I sought refuge.

Refuge from hunger that gaged others to eat one of their own.

Refuge that shielded me from watching babies gutted out of pregnant women.

Refuge that helped me sustained my sanity.

Refuge that brought me back to Liberia.

As I ran to the foundation that once protected me from the evils of the world, the chill breeze swept by leaving me with a kiss from Gayduo my namesake. I knew I was being welcome again, by the woman who business swag educated over fifteen kids.

I stood on the foundation of the house, and I saw faces smiling back at me, allowing me to reminisce over the little I remembered, running tiredly down a hill to a place I no longer recall after a game of hide and seek. Skipping through a dark hallway, stopping for a taste of Fufu, and Palava Sauce at each room door. Hiding from the so-called country devil that came out when kids were behaved bad. I remembered the feeling of the sand between my toes, as the ground I stood on was once a sanctuary for games like hopscotch, lapa, jumping ropes, and around the world, games we played.

Once a home, now a dome

As I walked away and saw faces I no longer remembered, but I once ran to for refuge, I knew I was walking away from something. I had longed for the moment my feet will touch the soil of Fesssibu for so long, and as I walked away from the happy faces that greeted me, I wonder …is Fessibu still a place of refuge?

Still shock by what I saw

Lofa County was one of the most productive counties in Liberia, producing minerals and coco for export. Today towns are plaster with signs of NGOs showcasing projects they are implementing. Yet, with all the ongoing, and completed programs one cannot see the physical results they are yielding. As I drove away a little boy ran towards the car to ask for “lil something” in Liberia that means money, explaining through grasping breath that he needed to buy food for the day.  With the experiences I have had in the past given money to young men on the street could be potentially dangerous.  There is a 50/50 chance the money will be use for food, or drugs.  Thus, I have created my personal method for determining who I should give “lil something” to, and who I shouldn’t ( a bias method I must say). Making a quick judgment based on his appearance I came to the conclusion that if I give him any money it would be used for drugs. Consequently, I left him staring after the car with anger and sadness fusing out of his eyes, after I explained I could not help him.

As we drove away from Fessibu it became obvious the place that was once a safe haven for me, possesses new terrors for others. Terrors perpetrated by the errors of decisions makers since 1847. Un-rational, unethical, selfish, power-driven decisions executed in the interest of few, is now hunting a generation fighting daily to ensure tomorrow does not come. How do we make Liberia a place of refuge?

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Nanas' Lodge

Fishermen preparing to go fishing.

It was a hot sticky day…...Come to think of it pretty much every day in Liberia is hot and sticky. However, the day I went to Nanas’ Lodge the ground seem to exhale heat from the beaming sun reflecting on it. I discovered Nanas' Lodge through word of mouth, and with little to do in Monrovia, I knew I had go for a visit. Described as a place where one can go to experience endless adventures (surfing, boat riding, sailing, camping, etc) How dare I come to Liberia and not experience some adventures.

The good portion of the road.

Nanas' Lodge is located about two hours outside of Monrovia in Robertsport, Capemount.  I was fortunate to have a car, which made the journey less hectic. Too bad driving there was not as smooth. When I went to Nanas’ Lodge the road was not paved at the time, and construction was still being done. Driving there felt like an uncomfortable roller coaster.  From previous trips outside Monrovia I knew not to eat certain food while traveling outside of the city to avoid stomach sickness ( I advised you do the same).

On the way we discovered a little town by the road, with a beautiful Palava hut to sit and relax. The individuals taking care of the place do not charge strangers to sit and use the place.  It is about 20 minutes before you get to Nanas' Lodge.  We packed a picnic basket so it was the ideal spot to stretch out and have a little lunch. It is a nice area on the beach, and if you are lucky you might get to see birds of different kinds flying by wanting to share your food.

After picnic...sleepy time.

One of the caretakers( she insisted we take  picture of her)

Two hours away from Monrovia, we arrived at Nanas’ Lodge, and I was taking away by the beautiful blue sea shinning from the sun beaming on it, endless clean sand to dip your feet into, and most of all a place to SAIL!! I have to say, people exaggerated the services at Nanas' Lodge. I was able to go boat riding only after an hour of the caretakers tying to find a Sailor, surfing was not possible as there was no guide, (plus it was not as popular anymore), sailing (no equipments), and camping was possible (cheaper if you have your own equipments).

We ended the day after few boat tumblings, several accidental drowning (the tides are high, if you are not a good swimmer do not go too far into the sea), and the best part of all, ALL YOU CAN EAT NATURAL ALMOUNDS for free!!!!!!!!!!

Recovering from boat tumbling #1.

Huge rocks at the end of the beach to sunbath or just enjoy the scenery .

End of the day...Look behind you will see the ALMOND trees!!!

It is feasible and cheaper to spend a day at Nanas’ Lodge if you leave Monrovia early in the morning, and depart by 7pm. However, you don’t want to drive too late as you could put yourself at risk of arm robbery, or due to bad roads if something happen help is harder to find.  If you chose to spend the weekend be prepare to spend at least $100 per night for a cabin. I advice if you intend to go, call them ahead of time, so they can arrange to have all the equipments and staff needed for activities you wish to do. Unfortunately, this is the reality for most Liberian business....