Chimpanzee Island



Chimpanzees coming out to shore

Maybe I expected too much from the Chimpanzee Island. I had envisioned…...................An island off the coast of Marshalls on which upon arrival , a guy in a Crocodile Dundee outfit  with Australian accent comes sprouting towards the boat welcoming us to the island. Introduces himself and lead us towards the chimpanzees, on the way telling us how to behave and what to expect. Once we are close enough we can feed them, play catch ball with them, and have them eat bananas from our palms!! After a long day of playing and exploring the Island to show how grateful they are, the chimps will walk with us back to the boat, and sadly wave us away. 

In reality, we left Monrovia around 9am after we picked up several colleagues on the way. Cramped up in my Nissan, literally as we had tree in the front and four in the back.

3 in the front



4 in the back, one invisible:)



Thank God we are in Liberia, because we would have been pulled over in a second. After about 45mins of driving we arrived at Marshals Island, our guide DMAX arranged for a boat to take us to the main Island. We were charged 65 USD and they did not provide anything. We had to bring our life jackets, food, etc.  The town is quite lively with few places to get snacks, but make sure you eat before going, and take snacks. We parked the car by the loading dock, and had someone watched the car as we sailed out. 

  

Who can do the best Chimp impression?

We sailed for about 20mins before arriving at Chimpanzee Island. The ride over was beautiful in terms of scenery, and conversations. Once we got there, I was so shock! The chimpanzees were as big as me, I wish I had the chance to get closer.



Pay attention to this sign

For all those scary cats out there, there is a warning that prohibits boats from crossing a specific point, it is a way to protect the animals and humans.  Once you follow the rules, you will get close enough to have fun with them, without leaving your bones behindJ

Unfortunately, we made a mistake, and did not buy enough bananas, after 10 mins all our bananas were gone, and we had to scrap for snacks to maintain their attention.  Take as much as you can, as it is a way to keep them active.

 

I was wondering the same thing. why do we have Japanese flags on local boats? long story..



On the way back we stopped to get taste of palm wine (Liberian brew alcohol brevage), and we definitely won a dance off with a self proclaim dancer.

Mr.Gbowee with his Palm Wine



We made it back safely!! Our sailor on far left.

As great as this trip was I could not help readjusting my thoughts to the previous days when I read an article pertaining to the Island, and how it manifested in Liberia. I was appalled and disturbed that our government will approve something so dangerous (click here to read). When does idiocracy ends?

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Refuge

At the age of three years, we left Monrovia to seek refuge in Lofa from the war.  My mother, aunt, cousin, and I walked for four hours to get there. Considering our age at the time, they did most of the walking for which today I am grateful for.  We arrived welcomed by grandmother’s family. My great grandmother Gayduo, several grand aunts, uncles, cousins, etc. Given my age at the time, I have limited memory of my time spent there.  However, the little I do remember intrigued me to return for two reasons. 1) To prove my memories right after so many years of living outside of the country and 2) learn more about the place my extended family call home.

On our way to Fessibu

Fessibu, Lofa County

Yes! I returned to the place I sought refuge.

Refuge from hunger that gaged others to eat one of their own.

Refuge that shielded me from watching babies gutted out of pregnant women.

Refuge that helped me sustained my sanity.

Refuge that brought me back to Liberia.

As I ran to the foundation that once protected me from the evils of the world, the chill breeze swept by leaving me with a kiss from Gayduo my namesake. I knew I was being welcome again, by the woman who business swag educated over fifteen kids.

I stood on the foundation of the house, and I saw faces smiling back at me, allowing me to reminisce over the little I remembered, running tiredly down a hill to a place I no longer recall after a game of hide and seek. Skipping through a dark hallway, stopping for a taste of Fufu, and Palava Sauce at each room door. Hiding from the so-called country devil that came out when kids were behaved bad. I remembered the feeling of the sand between my toes, as the ground I stood on was once a sanctuary for games like hopscotch, lapa, jumping ropes, and around the world, games we played.

Once a home, now a dome

As I walked away and saw faces I no longer remembered, but I once ran to for refuge, I knew I was walking away from something. I had longed for the moment my feet will touch the soil of Fesssibu for so long, and as I walked away from the happy faces that greeted me, I wonder …is Fessibu still a place of refuge?

Still shock by what I saw

Lofa County was one of the most productive counties in Liberia, producing minerals and coco for export. Today towns are plaster with signs of NGOs showcasing projects they are implementing. Yet, with all the ongoing, and completed programs one cannot see the physical results they are yielding. As I drove away a little boy ran towards the car to ask for “lil something” in Liberia that means money, explaining through grasping breath that he needed to buy food for the day.  With the experiences I have had in the past given money to young men on the street could be potentially dangerous.  There is a 50/50 chance the money will be use for food, or drugs.  Thus, I have created my personal method for determining who I should give “lil something” to, and who I shouldn’t ( a bias method I must say). Making a quick judgment based on his appearance I came to the conclusion that if I give him any money it would be used for drugs. Consequently, I left him staring after the car with anger and sadness fusing out of his eyes, after I explained I could not help him.

As we drove away from Fessibu it became obvious the place that was once a safe haven for me, possesses new terrors for others. Terrors perpetrated by the errors of decisions makers since 1847. Un-rational, unethical, selfish, power-driven decisions executed in the interest of few, is now hunting a generation fighting daily to ensure tomorrow does not come. How do we make Liberia a place of refuge?

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Ile de Goree (Goree Island)

Ile de Goree is a small island about 20mins boat ride from the coast of Dakar. Goree was once a major slave-trading center for the Portuguese, British and Dutch. Many individuals of African decent use Goree as their pilgrimage destination. The Maison des Esclaves (House of Slaves) on the island has become a place of pilgrimage for anyone to reflect upon the horrors of the slave-trade. 

It is amazing how the Goree Island differ from Dakar. Arriving on the coast of Goree you realize how noisy and busy the streets of Dakar are. The boot ride and the less noisy streets put you in a mood of relaxation for what to come. There is no need to acquire transportation once on the island, as it is small enough to maneuver on foot. If it is your first time I advise that you get a guide to take you around. There will be lot of guides offering their services. Do not pay more than 5000cfa for a guide. Be prepared to pay visitors’ tax of 100cfa before you enter the island. 

One of the main attractions is the Maison des Esclaves (House of Slaves). It has been converted into a museum, once inside you can walk through the dungeons where the slaves were held and the guide will explain exactly how they were sold and shipped. Musee de la Femme (The Women's Museum) focuses on the role of Senegalese women in traditional and modern world. Maritime Museum offers the visitor information about Senegal's seafaring history. There are many museums and other attractions on the Island. I had limited time therefore could not see all. Goree has a lot of restaurant and various tourist stalls. As in many parts of Senegal you can bargain for the many tourist treasures you will want to buy!

I was here before you came
I was here when waltz became superior to makonde ngoma
I was here when black became priceless
I was here when independence became dependence
I was here when brothers became neighboring strangers
I was here when external maximization became internal minimization
I am still here……..
How dare you come with your innocuous western attitude?
Telling me what I already know!
Have you not done enough?

Slavery has forever scar Africa and continues to impact the advancement of Africans today. As I walked through the homes once own by slaves’ masters along the coast of Goree, I tried to understand the lives of the masters that once walked down the halls I walked. Upstairs the masters lived comfortable and below dungeons were built to keep slaves secluded until their departure. Scholars try to justify why, and how slavery became entrenched in various societies, but as I walked through the homes built for one group of people to dominate another, all academic justification for slavery was broken down to these simple words….You are nothing and I am everything, therefore I have the power to do unto you as I please.



Below slaves were kept and their master(s) residence was above

A monument to celebrate the emancipation of slavery

Chains used to restrained slaves

My disappointment with the human race was diminished when I came across two exceptional Senegalese artists. They own a little gallery hidden in the trenches of Goree. The art work they are producing are amazing and their production process is extraordinary. For me these artists are not just making art, they are experimenting with the natural environment in a productive way. The art form is called “Sand Art”. They use soils from different parts of Senegal and Gambia to create different pieces. Below is an example of their work….

It took the artist less than five minutes to create the basic layout above!

Art made out of recycle materials

As I stood on the balcony where masters of my forefathers once stood, below me black stones stared back at me, asking now what? Africa will never be like the west, yet still our leaders do everything to imitate their former oppressors. Is imitation the only way to archive advancement in Africa? If not, what and how do we advance? 

Recommend Read (Walter Rodney “How Europe Underdeveloped Africa)

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A Day At "Lac Rose"

Today I took my first tour to the north of SENEGAL. My second weekend in Dakar and it was Amazing!!! We went to see the “Lac Rose” which means “Pink Lake” one of the many tourist attractions in Senegal. It's called the Lac Rose because the high salt content, the microscopic algae and micro-organisms from the water give it a pink color. Depending on the time of the day and when the light passes through it turns to shades of pink/purple until late afternoon. From Dakar it took us about 1.5 hours to get there. Our return trip took about two hours. On the weekend public transportation is slower, however if you don’t have a private car the best means of getting to LAC ROSE is public transportation. We took the public bus call “Tata" got drop of at one of the Liberty 6 stops and took the taxi the rest of the way. Never pay the full prices propose by the drivers; always negotiate for a lesser price. 

As we drove to the site we engaged with a few locals, I was impressed with how welcoming they were. Hospitality is best defined by Africans. We finally got to the site, thanks to a wonderful taxi driver and we were all blown away. The scenery was breath taking! There are many activities one can do to keep busy through out the day, such as horse riding, camel riding, touring on four wheelers, touring by foot, etc. If you want to get a good work out take the tour on foot (about 8km), but make sure you take lots of water as it is very hot. Tourists have to be careful with the acumen strategy used by the women to purchase their hand made work. They approach you with a huge grin on their faces; no one in their right mind can dare walk away from. Present you with a gift (free of charge). The men are given necklaces, women bracelets or both. As you walk away, they then ask you to look at the supplies, how can one refuse to buy after such a nice gesture? However, don’t feel obligated.

Our first  attempt to capture the color of the Lake

Me attempting to carry a basket of supplies

They are so peaceful. Take a ride on them if you can

As we cross the lake, on the shore you see men/women extracting and carrying tons of salt

It's Ramadan in Senegal, so many are fasting.  The man steering the boat did not eat/drink all day! So when we got to the other side safe we were very happy

After 30mins of walking in the desert we finally got to a beach. Yeah!!!!

What a day! would love to stay and just enjoy the water.

Apart from being a tourist area, Lac Rose is one of the largest sources for extracting salt in Senegal. Women carried pounds of salt on their heads and due to my limited Wolof I could not engage them. It is quite obvious their job is physically and mentally hard for the men and women working at the lake. According to our tour guide, women who work on the lake for a long period are prone to birth defects and physical harm. Although, the conditions these women are facing are completely different from the low paying jobs in the States, my mind could not help wandering back to these few lines I jotted down a while back in United States…..

 Dream...?

Work! They say, so I work

Speak! They say, so I speak

Work Harder! So my hours become my family

The little ones are just numbers now

Speak Louder! So I shout but it’s not phonetically correct

Nobody can comprehend

Why am I working so hard?

Why am I shouting at the top of my lungs?

F***, I am 65 years old and I am still 99%

Senegal is not one of the richest countries on the continent when it pertains to resources, Senegal is one of the countries in West Africa that has enjoyed stability since independence from its colonizers. Yet, poverty is prevalent amongst its’ citizens. Like most African countries the justification for disparity among the rich and the poor in my opinion can be easily answered. However, we all have chosen specific reasons as to why poverty is prevalent in Africa.

 

I pose this question to all reading this: Who is benefiting the most from the vast resources extracted from Africa? The current methodologies use to eradicate poverty in Africa is not working, what do you propose?

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