This Too is Liberia…

Heading for the waves

In Liberia, after one hear the statement “this too is Liberia….” normally it is follow by negativity. This negativity takes place in all forms and relates to numerous situations. On the contrary this post is not a subject of negativity. “This too is Liberia”….……when young men and women can hold on to a sport that allows them to preserver in all aspects of the lives.  Surfing in Liberia????

Yes, and it is taking over the coast of Cape Mount and spreading to other coastal cities in Liberia. I longed to see the surfing at Nanas’ lodge, since I heard about it. Unfortunately, for me I always visited when the team was not performing. When, I arrived in the country tired, overworked, and was told there was surfing competition the next day, I knew I had to be there!

Surfing it up!

A competitor hitting the waves

With all the joggling it took to get there, we made it and it was great!! It was great to see young Liberians, girls and boys, stimulated by a sport so different from what they are not culturally accustom to, but yet so naturally part of who they are.  The competition consisted of three categories: senior, junior and women.

Regrettable, I did not see the entire competition as I had to drive back to Monrovia for work. However, the conversation I had with one of the 1^st self taught surfers led me to believe this was not just a sport for these surfers. It was a social and psychological escape from years of devastation they had endured. 

The confidence he exuded, from the manner in which he spoke, his leadership amongst his peers, were evidence that surfing has created a positive dimension in his life.

All in the days work 

These young surfers are utilizing surfing to create a sense of belonging and security. More should be done to support the surfers in RobertSport, but like most things in Liberia people shy away from the unknown, instead of exploring the unknown. Wake up LIBERIA and support your future leaders!!!!

Chimpanzee Island



Chimpanzees coming out to shore

Maybe I expected too much from the Chimpanzee Island. I had envisioned…...................An island off the coast of Marshalls on which upon arrival , a guy in a Crocodile Dundee outfit  with Australian accent comes sprouting towards the boat welcoming us to the island. Introduces himself and lead us towards the chimpanzees, on the way telling us how to behave and what to expect. Once we are close enough we can feed them, play catch ball with them, and have them eat bananas from our palms!! After a long day of playing and exploring the Island to show how grateful they are, the chimps will walk with us back to the boat, and sadly wave us away. 

In reality, we left Monrovia around 9am after we picked up several colleagues on the way. Cramped up in my Nissan, literally as we had tree in the front and four in the back.

3 in the front



4 in the back, one invisible:)



Thank God we are in Liberia, because we would have been pulled over in a second. After about 45mins of driving we arrived at Marshals Island, our guide DMAX arranged for a boat to take us to the main Island. We were charged 65 USD and they did not provide anything. We had to bring our life jackets, food, etc.  The town is quite lively with few places to get snacks, but make sure you eat before going, and take snacks. We parked the car by the loading dock, and had someone watched the car as we sailed out. 

  

Who can do the best Chimp impression?

We sailed for about 20mins before arriving at Chimpanzee Island. The ride over was beautiful in terms of scenery, and conversations. Once we got there, I was so shock! The chimpanzees were as big as me, I wish I had the chance to get closer.



Pay attention to this sign

For all those scary cats out there, there is a warning that prohibits boats from crossing a specific point, it is a way to protect the animals and humans.  Once you follow the rules, you will get close enough to have fun with them, without leaving your bones behindJ

Unfortunately, we made a mistake, and did not buy enough bananas, after 10 mins all our bananas were gone, and we had to scrap for snacks to maintain their attention.  Take as much as you can, as it is a way to keep them active.

 

I was wondering the same thing. why do we have Japanese flags on local boats? long story..



On the way back we stopped to get taste of palm wine (Liberian brew alcohol brevage), and we definitely won a dance off with a self proclaim dancer.

Mr.Gbowee with his Palm Wine



We made it back safely!! Our sailor on far left.

As great as this trip was I could not help readjusting my thoughts to the previous days when I read an article pertaining to the Island, and how it manifested in Liberia. I was appalled and disturbed that our government will approve something so dangerous (click here to read). When does idiocracy ends?

To view more pictures click here



Refuge

At the age of three years, we left Monrovia to seek refuge in Lofa from the war.  My mother, aunt, cousin, and I walked for four hours to get there. Considering our age at the time, they did most of the walking for which today I am grateful for.  We arrived welcomed by grandmother’s family. My great grandmother Gayduo, several grand aunts, uncles, cousins, etc. Given my age at the time, I have limited memory of my time spent there.  However, the little I do remember intrigued me to return for two reasons. 1) To prove my memories right after so many years of living outside of the country and 2) learn more about the place my extended family call home.

On our way to Fessibu

Fessibu, Lofa County

Yes! I returned to the place I sought refuge.

Refuge from hunger that gaged others to eat one of their own.

Refuge that shielded me from watching babies gutted out of pregnant women.

Refuge that helped me sustained my sanity.

Refuge that brought me back to Liberia.

As I ran to the foundation that once protected me from the evils of the world, the chill breeze swept by leaving me with a kiss from Gayduo my namesake. I knew I was being welcome again, by the woman who business swag educated over fifteen kids.

I stood on the foundation of the house, and I saw faces smiling back at me, allowing me to reminisce over the little I remembered, running tiredly down a hill to a place I no longer recall after a game of hide and seek. Skipping through a dark hallway, stopping for a taste of Fufu, and Palava Sauce at each room door. Hiding from the so-called country devil that came out when kids were behaved bad. I remembered the feeling of the sand between my toes, as the ground I stood on was once a sanctuary for games like hopscotch, lapa, jumping ropes, and around the world, games we played.

Once a home, now a dome

As I walked away and saw faces I no longer remembered, but I once ran to for refuge, I knew I was walking away from something. I had longed for the moment my feet will touch the soil of Fesssibu for so long, and as I walked away from the happy faces that greeted me, I wonder …is Fessibu still a place of refuge?

Still shock by what I saw

Lofa County was one of the most productive counties in Liberia, producing minerals and coco for export. Today towns are plaster with signs of NGOs showcasing projects they are implementing. Yet, with all the ongoing, and completed programs one cannot see the physical results they are yielding. As I drove away a little boy ran towards the car to ask for “lil something” in Liberia that means money, explaining through grasping breath that he needed to buy food for the day.  With the experiences I have had in the past given money to young men on the street could be potentially dangerous.  There is a 50/50 chance the money will be use for food, or drugs.  Thus, I have created my personal method for determining who I should give “lil something” to, and who I shouldn’t ( a bias method I must say). Making a quick judgment based on his appearance I came to the conclusion that if I give him any money it would be used for drugs. Consequently, I left him staring after the car with anger and sadness fusing out of his eyes, after I explained I could not help him.

As we drove away from Fessibu it became obvious the place that was once a safe haven for me, possesses new terrors for others. Terrors perpetrated by the errors of decisions makers since 1847. Un-rational, unethical, selfish, power-driven decisions executed in the interest of few, is now hunting a generation fighting daily to ensure tomorrow does not come. How do we make Liberia a place of refuge?

To view more pictures click here

Women Weaving Center of Vonjamah, Lofa County

Mrs. Dorbor giving an interview

It was a sight to see, creativity to admire, a concept unexpectedly stumbled upon, and proudness exuded from our faces to know she was a Liberian. Esther Dorbor grew up with a skill that manifested into a tool for social change. On my way to Vahun, Lofa I stopped in Vonjamah fascinated by a beautiful monument alongside the road.  After a short walk to the monument, I was soon fascinated with what was happening left of the monument. I recognized the act as I remembered visiting a similar site in the Philippines. Compare to what I saw in the Philippine this structure was simply making it more intriguing. It was the simplicity of the structure that captured my attention.  From afar I noticed the women were hard at work, concentrating intensely on the work at hand.

Monument that 1st attracted my attention

A program participant setting up to weave

As we got closer, the products produced by the Women Woven Center of Lofa blew me away.  As I touched the fabric I declared it was the finest texture of cloth I have touch in Liberia thus far! The colors of the fabric were brilliantly combined to make a fabric in Liberia known as the ” Country Cloth”.

Purchasing some of the cloths made that day

Esther Dorbor moved to Vonjamah when she married. She and her husband wanted to do something for their community. They noticed men were leaving their women due to the fact most women could not assist with sustaining the home financially, thus the burden was becoming unbearable for the men.  

Esther's husband asked her if she could teach the women the skill she had learned, that made her self reliant most of her life. Together they started a program to teach local women free of charge how to weave the Country Cloth.  The women have six months to learn, after which they can go out on their own and produce. Due to limited funding, and a large number of participants, students have to quit the program after six months in order for others to participate.  They are currently using funding from previous sales to sustain the program. 

However, their biggest concern is acquiring funding that will enable them to teach the women longer, and host more participants. The " Country Cloth " is only made and produced in Liberia. The fabric can be made into anything from clothing, bags, or use for interior designing. Visit (ARWAY BAGS ) for examples.

My eccentric sister dressing up her pet pillow with hers

Excited with my new accessory !!!

As we move towards a new Liberia, I hope more women choose to be at the front line and not on the side regardless of the difficulties they confront. As women participation is essential to Liberia prosperity. The Women Weaving Center of Vonjamah mass produce, therefore if you want to contact the Women Woven Center of Vonjamah to assist them with their cause, or purchase some beautiful pieces from them they can be reached at (231) 088-069-1849/ (231) 088-685-9608.

Nanas' Lodge

Fishermen preparing to go fishing.

It was a hot sticky day…...Come to think of it pretty much every day in Liberia is hot and sticky. However, the day I went to Nanas’ Lodge the ground seem to exhale heat from the beaming sun reflecting on it. I discovered Nanas' Lodge through word of mouth, and with little to do in Monrovia, I knew I had go for a visit. Described as a place where one can go to experience endless adventures (surfing, boat riding, sailing, camping, etc) How dare I come to Liberia and not experience some adventures.

The good portion of the road.

Nanas' Lodge is located about two hours outside of Monrovia in Robertsport, Capemount.  I was fortunate to have a car, which made the journey less hectic. Too bad driving there was not as smooth. When I went to Nanas’ Lodge the road was not paved at the time, and construction was still being done. Driving there felt like an uncomfortable roller coaster.  From previous trips outside Monrovia I knew not to eat certain food while traveling outside of the city to avoid stomach sickness ( I advised you do the same).

On the way we discovered a little town by the road, with a beautiful Palava hut to sit and relax. The individuals taking care of the place do not charge strangers to sit and use the place.  It is about 20 minutes before you get to Nanas' Lodge.  We packed a picnic basket so it was the ideal spot to stretch out and have a little lunch. It is a nice area on the beach, and if you are lucky you might get to see birds of different kinds flying by wanting to share your food.

After picnic...sleepy time.

One of the caretakers( she insisted we take  picture of her)

Two hours away from Monrovia, we arrived at Nanas’ Lodge, and I was taking away by the beautiful blue sea shinning from the sun beaming on it, endless clean sand to dip your feet into, and most of all a place to SAIL!! I have to say, people exaggerated the services at Nanas' Lodge. I was able to go boat riding only after an hour of the caretakers tying to find a Sailor, surfing was not possible as there was no guide, (plus it was not as popular anymore), sailing (no equipments), and camping was possible (cheaper if you have your own equipments).

We ended the day after few boat tumblings, several accidental drowning (the tides are high, if you are not a good swimmer do not go too far into the sea), and the best part of all, ALL YOU CAN EAT NATURAL ALMOUNDS for free!!!!!!!!!!

Recovering from boat tumbling #1.

Huge rocks at the end of the beach to sunbath or just enjoy the scenery .

End of the day...Look behind you will see the ALMOND trees!!!

It is feasible and cheaper to spend a day at Nanas’ Lodge if you leave Monrovia early in the morning, and depart by 7pm. However, you don’t want to drive too late as you could put yourself at risk of arm robbery, or due to bad roads if something happen help is harder to find.  If you chose to spend the weekend be prepare to spend at least $100 per night for a cabin. I advice if you intend to go, call them ahead of time, so they can arrange to have all the equipments and staff needed for activities you wish to do. Unfortunately, this is the reality for most Liberian business....