This Too is Liberia…

Heading for the waves

In Liberia, after one hear the statement “this too is Liberia….” normally it is follow by negativity. This negativity takes place in all forms and relates to numerous situations. On the contrary this post is not a subject of negativity. “This too is Liberia”….……when young men and women can hold on to a sport that allows them to preserver in all aspects of the lives.  Surfing in Liberia????

Yes, and it is taking over the coast of Cape Mount and spreading to other coastal cities in Liberia. I longed to see the surfing at Nanas’ lodge, since I heard about it. Unfortunately, for me I always visited when the team was not performing. When, I arrived in the country tired, overworked, and was told there was surfing competition the next day, I knew I had to be there!

Surfing it up!

A competitor hitting the waves

With all the joggling it took to get there, we made it and it was great!! It was great to see young Liberians, girls and boys, stimulated by a sport so different from what they are not culturally accustom to, but yet so naturally part of who they are.  The competition consisted of three categories: senior, junior and women.

Regrettable, I did not see the entire competition as I had to drive back to Monrovia for work. However, the conversation I had with one of the 1^st self taught surfers led me to believe this was not just a sport for these surfers. It was a social and psychological escape from years of devastation they had endured. 

The confidence he exuded, from the manner in which he spoke, his leadership amongst his peers, were evidence that surfing has created a positive dimension in his life.

All in the days work 

These young surfers are utilizing surfing to create a sense of belonging and security. More should be done to support the surfers in RobertSport, but like most things in Liberia people shy away from the unknown, instead of exploring the unknown. Wake up LIBERIA and support your future leaders!!!!

Nanas' Lodge

Fishermen preparing to go fishing.

It was a hot sticky day…...Come to think of it pretty much every day in Liberia is hot and sticky. However, the day I went to Nanas’ Lodge the ground seem to exhale heat from the beaming sun reflecting on it. I discovered Nanas' Lodge through word of mouth, and with little to do in Monrovia, I knew I had go for a visit. Described as a place where one can go to experience endless adventures (surfing, boat riding, sailing, camping, etc) How dare I come to Liberia and not experience some adventures.

The good portion of the road.

Nanas' Lodge is located about two hours outside of Monrovia in Robertsport, Capemount.  I was fortunate to have a car, which made the journey less hectic. Too bad driving there was not as smooth. When I went to Nanas’ Lodge the road was not paved at the time, and construction was still being done. Driving there felt like an uncomfortable roller coaster.  From previous trips outside Monrovia I knew not to eat certain food while traveling outside of the city to avoid stomach sickness ( I advised you do the same).

On the way we discovered a little town by the road, with a beautiful Palava hut to sit and relax. The individuals taking care of the place do not charge strangers to sit and use the place.  It is about 20 minutes before you get to Nanas' Lodge.  We packed a picnic basket so it was the ideal spot to stretch out and have a little lunch. It is a nice area on the beach, and if you are lucky you might get to see birds of different kinds flying by wanting to share your food.

After picnic...sleepy time.

One of the caretakers( she insisted we take  picture of her)

Two hours away from Monrovia, we arrived at Nanas’ Lodge, and I was taking away by the beautiful blue sea shinning from the sun beaming on it, endless clean sand to dip your feet into, and most of all a place to SAIL!! I have to say, people exaggerated the services at Nanas' Lodge. I was able to go boat riding only after an hour of the caretakers tying to find a Sailor, surfing was not possible as there was no guide, (plus it was not as popular anymore), sailing (no equipments), and camping was possible (cheaper if you have your own equipments).

We ended the day after few boat tumblings, several accidental drowning (the tides are high, if you are not a good swimmer do not go too far into the sea), and the best part of all, ALL YOU CAN EAT NATURAL ALMOUNDS for free!!!!!!!!!!

Recovering from boat tumbling #1.

Huge rocks at the end of the beach to sunbath or just enjoy the scenery .

End of the day...Look behind you will see the ALMOND trees!!!

It is feasible and cheaper to spend a day at Nanas’ Lodge if you leave Monrovia early in the morning, and depart by 7pm. However, you don’t want to drive too late as you could put yourself at risk of arm robbery, or due to bad roads if something happen help is harder to find.  If you chose to spend the weekend be prepare to spend at least $100 per night for a cabin. I advice if you intend to go, call them ahead of time, so they can arrange to have all the equipments and staff needed for activities you wish to do. Unfortunately, this is the reality for most Liberian business....

Keur Bamboung


I left Liberia at an age which did not allow me to explore my country as much as I would have liked. One of my regrets was not experiencing life outside of Monrovia. Thus, one of my goals before embarking on my practicum was to experience life outside the city in the various countries I explore, I am glad I had the opportunity to discover the beauty of living outside of Dakar, during the process learning about the preservation of our environment.  It was pleasant to see others making an effort to decrease their eco footprint.

From Dakar, it will take about six hours to get to Keur Bambong. You can take a bus from a station called “Station Pompier” in Dakar. From there the bus will take you directly to Toubacouta. If you take the bus, to and from Keur Bamboung the fare is no less than 10,00cfa roundtrip. Once in Toubacouta, you can choose to stay the night for 6000cfa. If not you can go directly to the Keur Bamboung, which is located in an area call Sine Saloume, a three day weekend at Keur Bamboung is 17,000cfa, which include breakfast and dinner. If you chose to stay in Toubacouta for the night, I recommend you stay at the hostel below. The facilities are nice and the host is great!





 



 

The only means of getting to Keur Bamboung is to take a pirogue from Toubacouta (30mins). Keur Bamboung( 221775108013/2215548456) is an Ecolodge, located in a little village call Sine Solume, it is one of the most beautiful places I have visited in my life. The owners were organized, and cognizant of their guests' needs. The Eco lodge is set up as a communal entity, therefore, the proceeds benefit the villagers (owners) and use to maintain the rich prosperity of the environment.

 

 

The camp is built to give guests a sense of village life, but they have modern amenities to ease your worries. Once on the ground, you are able to experience the best nature and the locals have to offer. In accordance with their message of preserving the environment, a donkey transports guests’ belongings from the shore to the camp. All activities are planned according to the guests’ agenda. If you chose not to partake in activities during your stay you won’t be bothered. However, I encourage all to partake in the activities, as it is crucial to understanding the message of the camp. For activities, the cahasave the option of birds watching, canoeing g, tour of the village, etc. The food is amazing (hhhhhmmmmmm)!!!!! However, if you are not a big eater, request that your main course for diner a be downside. It’s a lot of food.

Be aware, on the weekend it is difficult to get a bus directly from Toubacouta back to Dakar. Therefore you can take a bus to Karang or Kalack from Toubacouta, and than take a bus directly to Dakar. Traveling by bus from one city to another requires patience. As the rule is, the bus does not leave until it is full or passengers are willing to pay for the empty seat(s). Although we had to wait for three hours in Karang for the bus to get full it was well worth it!!!! It was a great opportunity to talk to the locals and get to know more about the area, especially if you speak Wolof.

My journey to Keur Bamboung and the recent conferences regarding protecting the environment in Africa prompted me to start thinking about how I can decrease my eco footprint. It seems that those who are taking precautionary steps to cause less harm to the environment, have less capital. Living in a world dominated by capitalists I understand why the preservation of the environment does not seem important, especially when it means acquiring more capital. Given how fast the earth is depleting, I hope we come to the realization that money is not the only thing that makes the world go round. If those with the least resources are trying to conserve and protect the earth, is it fair for those with the most resources to keep destroying mother earth?

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Ile de Goree (Goree Island)

Ile de Goree is a small island about 20mins boat ride from the coast of Dakar. Goree was once a major slave-trading center for the Portuguese, British and Dutch. Many individuals of African decent use Goree as their pilgrimage destination. The Maison des Esclaves (House of Slaves) on the island has become a place of pilgrimage for anyone to reflect upon the horrors of the slave-trade. 

It is amazing how the Goree Island differ from Dakar. Arriving on the coast of Goree you realize how noisy and busy the streets of Dakar are. The boot ride and the less noisy streets put you in a mood of relaxation for what to come. There is no need to acquire transportation once on the island, as it is small enough to maneuver on foot. If it is your first time I advise that you get a guide to take you around. There will be lot of guides offering their services. Do not pay more than 5000cfa for a guide. Be prepared to pay visitors’ tax of 100cfa before you enter the island. 

One of the main attractions is the Maison des Esclaves (House of Slaves). It has been converted into a museum, once inside you can walk through the dungeons where the slaves were held and the guide will explain exactly how they were sold and shipped. Musee de la Femme (The Women's Museum) focuses on the role of Senegalese women in traditional and modern world. Maritime Museum offers the visitor information about Senegal's seafaring history. There are many museums and other attractions on the Island. I had limited time therefore could not see all. Goree has a lot of restaurant and various tourist stalls. As in many parts of Senegal you can bargain for the many tourist treasures you will want to buy!

I was here before you came
I was here when waltz became superior to makonde ngoma
I was here when black became priceless
I was here when independence became dependence
I was here when brothers became neighboring strangers
I was here when external maximization became internal minimization
I am still here……..
How dare you come with your innocuous western attitude?
Telling me what I already know!
Have you not done enough?

Slavery has forever scar Africa and continues to impact the advancement of Africans today. As I walked through the homes once own by slaves’ masters along the coast of Goree, I tried to understand the lives of the masters that once walked down the halls I walked. Upstairs the masters lived comfortable and below dungeons were built to keep slaves secluded until their departure. Scholars try to justify why, and how slavery became entrenched in various societies, but as I walked through the homes built for one group of people to dominate another, all academic justification for slavery was broken down to these simple words….You are nothing and I am everything, therefore I have the power to do unto you as I please.



Below slaves were kept and their master(s) residence was above

A monument to celebrate the emancipation of slavery

Chains used to restrained slaves

My disappointment with the human race was diminished when I came across two exceptional Senegalese artists. They own a little gallery hidden in the trenches of Goree. The art work they are producing are amazing and their production process is extraordinary. For me these artists are not just making art, they are experimenting with the natural environment in a productive way. The art form is called “Sand Art”. They use soils from different parts of Senegal and Gambia to create different pieces. Below is an example of their work….

It took the artist less than five minutes to create the basic layout above!

Art made out of recycle materials

As I stood on the balcony where masters of my forefathers once stood, below me black stones stared back at me, asking now what? Africa will never be like the west, yet still our leaders do everything to imitate their former oppressors. Is imitation the only way to archive advancement in Africa? If not, what and how do we advance? 

Recommend Read (Walter Rodney “How Europe Underdeveloped Africa)

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A Day At "Lac Rose"

Today I took my first tour to the north of SENEGAL. My second weekend in Dakar and it was Amazing!!! We went to see the “Lac Rose” which means “Pink Lake” one of the many tourist attractions in Senegal. It's called the Lac Rose because the high salt content, the microscopic algae and micro-organisms from the water give it a pink color. Depending on the time of the day and when the light passes through it turns to shades of pink/purple until late afternoon. From Dakar it took us about 1.5 hours to get there. Our return trip took about two hours. On the weekend public transportation is slower, however if you don’t have a private car the best means of getting to LAC ROSE is public transportation. We took the public bus call “Tata" got drop of at one of the Liberty 6 stops and took the taxi the rest of the way. Never pay the full prices propose by the drivers; always negotiate for a lesser price. 

As we drove to the site we engaged with a few locals, I was impressed with how welcoming they were. Hospitality is best defined by Africans. We finally got to the site, thanks to a wonderful taxi driver and we were all blown away. The scenery was breath taking! There are many activities one can do to keep busy through out the day, such as horse riding, camel riding, touring on four wheelers, touring by foot, etc. If you want to get a good work out take the tour on foot (about 8km), but make sure you take lots of water as it is very hot. Tourists have to be careful with the acumen strategy used by the women to purchase their hand made work. They approach you with a huge grin on their faces; no one in their right mind can dare walk away from. Present you with a gift (free of charge). The men are given necklaces, women bracelets or both. As you walk away, they then ask you to look at the supplies, how can one refuse to buy after such a nice gesture? However, don’t feel obligated.

Our first  attempt to capture the color of the Lake

Me attempting to carry a basket of supplies

They are so peaceful. Take a ride on them if you can

As we cross the lake, on the shore you see men/women extracting and carrying tons of salt

It's Ramadan in Senegal, so many are fasting.  The man steering the boat did not eat/drink all day! So when we got to the other side safe we were very happy

After 30mins of walking in the desert we finally got to a beach. Yeah!!!!

What a day! would love to stay and just enjoy the water.

Apart from being a tourist area, Lac Rose is one of the largest sources for extracting salt in Senegal. Women carried pounds of salt on their heads and due to my limited Wolof I could not engage them. It is quite obvious their job is physically and mentally hard for the men and women working at the lake. According to our tour guide, women who work on the lake for a long period are prone to birth defects and physical harm. Although, the conditions these women are facing are completely different from the low paying jobs in the States, my mind could not help wandering back to these few lines I jotted down a while back in United States…..

 Dream...?

Work! They say, so I work

Speak! They say, so I speak

Work Harder! So my hours become my family

The little ones are just numbers now

Speak Louder! So I shout but it’s not phonetically correct

Nobody can comprehend

Why am I working so hard?

Why am I shouting at the top of my lungs?

F***, I am 65 years old and I am still 99%

Senegal is not one of the richest countries on the continent when it pertains to resources, Senegal is one of the countries in West Africa that has enjoyed stability since independence from its colonizers. Yet, poverty is prevalent amongst its’ citizens. Like most African countries the justification for disparity among the rich and the poor in my opinion can be easily answered. However, we all have chosen specific reasons as to why poverty is prevalent in Africa.

 

I pose this question to all reading this: Who is benefiting the most from the vast resources extracted from Africa? The current methodologies use to eradicate poverty in Africa is not working, what do you propose?

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