This Too is Liberia…

Heading for the waves

In Liberia, after one hear the statement “this too is Liberia….” normally it is follow by negativity. This negativity takes place in all forms and relates to numerous situations. On the contrary this post is not a subject of negativity. “This too is Liberia”….……when young men and women can hold on to a sport that allows them to preserver in all aspects of the lives.  Surfing in Liberia????

Yes, and it is taking over the coast of Cape Mount and spreading to other coastal cities in Liberia. I longed to see the surfing at Nanas’ lodge, since I heard about it. Unfortunately, for me I always visited when the team was not performing. When, I arrived in the country tired, overworked, and was told there was surfing competition the next day, I knew I had to be there!

Surfing it up!

A competitor hitting the waves

With all the joggling it took to get there, we made it and it was great!! It was great to see young Liberians, girls and boys, stimulated by a sport so different from what they are not culturally accustom to, but yet so naturally part of who they are.  The competition consisted of three categories: senior, junior and women.

Regrettable, I did not see the entire competition as I had to drive back to Monrovia for work. However, the conversation I had with one of the 1^st self taught surfers led me to believe this was not just a sport for these surfers. It was a social and psychological escape from years of devastation they had endured. 

The confidence he exuded, from the manner in which he spoke, his leadership amongst his peers, were evidence that surfing has created a positive dimension in his life.

All in the days work 

These young surfers are utilizing surfing to create a sense of belonging and security. More should be done to support the surfers in RobertSport, but like most things in Liberia people shy away from the unknown, instead of exploring the unknown. Wake up LIBERIA and support your future leaders!!!!

Chimpanzee Island



Chimpanzees coming out to shore

Maybe I expected too much from the Chimpanzee Island. I had envisioned…...................An island off the coast of Marshalls on which upon arrival , a guy in a Crocodile Dundee outfit  with Australian accent comes sprouting towards the boat welcoming us to the island. Introduces himself and lead us towards the chimpanzees, on the way telling us how to behave and what to expect. Once we are close enough we can feed them, play catch ball with them, and have them eat bananas from our palms!! After a long day of playing and exploring the Island to show how grateful they are, the chimps will walk with us back to the boat, and sadly wave us away. 

In reality, we left Monrovia around 9am after we picked up several colleagues on the way. Cramped up in my Nissan, literally as we had tree in the front and four in the back.

3 in the front



4 in the back, one invisible:)



Thank God we are in Liberia, because we would have been pulled over in a second. After about 45mins of driving we arrived at Marshals Island, our guide DMAX arranged for a boat to take us to the main Island. We were charged 65 USD and they did not provide anything. We had to bring our life jackets, food, etc.  The town is quite lively with few places to get snacks, but make sure you eat before going, and take snacks. We parked the car by the loading dock, and had someone watched the car as we sailed out. 

  

Who can do the best Chimp impression?

We sailed for about 20mins before arriving at Chimpanzee Island. The ride over was beautiful in terms of scenery, and conversations. Once we got there, I was so shock! The chimpanzees were as big as me, I wish I had the chance to get closer.



Pay attention to this sign

For all those scary cats out there, there is a warning that prohibits boats from crossing a specific point, it is a way to protect the animals and humans.  Once you follow the rules, you will get close enough to have fun with them, without leaving your bones behindJ

Unfortunately, we made a mistake, and did not buy enough bananas, after 10 mins all our bananas were gone, and we had to scrap for snacks to maintain their attention.  Take as much as you can, as it is a way to keep them active.

 

I was wondering the same thing. why do we have Japanese flags on local boats? long story..



On the way back we stopped to get taste of palm wine (Liberian brew alcohol brevage), and we definitely won a dance off with a self proclaim dancer.

Mr.Gbowee with his Palm Wine



We made it back safely!! Our sailor on far left.

As great as this trip was I could not help readjusting my thoughts to the previous days when I read an article pertaining to the Island, and how it manifested in Liberia. I was appalled and disturbed that our government will approve something so dangerous (click here to read). When does idiocracy ends?

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Kpatawee Water Falls

Limited access to roads in Liberia, many find it difficult to leave Monrovia. Thus, there are many undiscovered sites waiting to be explore. One of which is the KPWATAWEE waterfall located in Gbarnga. An undiscovered gem, if properly invested in could be one of the best tourist attractions in West Africa. The first time I visited Kpatawee it was a hot, sweaty and a tiring day. I did not spend more than an hour there. However, I was taking away by the site, and promised to return to savoy in all that it has to offer.

1st time at Kpatawee (dry Season)

With limited recreational activities in Monrovia, I needed an opportunity to return to Kpatawee. Fortunate for me, my birthday is during the raining season. Liberia has two seasons, which is dry and raining season. During dry season the temperature can exceed 90 degrees. There is a saying around Liberia to explain exactly how hot it gets, many say dry season is the season during which one can take sweating showers. Literally, you are sweating while taking shower because it is so hot! During, raining season the temperature drops due to the heavy rain, thus the air tend to be cooler.

So, I was ecstatic when I decided to plan my birthday outside of Monrovia. Many of my associates and friends were not as excited partly because it was not the norm for them to leave Monrovia, and it was four hours drive away from civilization. However, I convinced enough people to come, and celebrate my birthday with me. Which in hindsight many did not regret.

We left Monrovia around 9am, arrived at Kpatawee at 1:30pm. It was little longer because we stopped quite a few times to take pictures, buy food, socialize with the locals, and due to careless driving we got into and accident. Fortunate for us no one was hurt, and we were able to continue with the trip.

The road leading to Kpatawee is currently under construction; therefore the last stretch is gravel. I will advice anyone going there do not drive too fast, the manner in which you drive on a coal tar road is not the same as a gravel road. If you speed most likely your tires will be pull by the gravel, which will lead to disaster. On a happier note we arrived at Kpatawee in one piece and every one was excited.

This accident did not stopped us! It just delayed us:)

We drove the car like this until we got back to Monrovia

Purchasing snacks...corn never look so good:)

Bathroom break, Liberian style

How high can we go!!! the locals thought we were crazzzyyy.

During the dry season the waterfall is nice, but during the raining season it is amazing! Driving towards the fall the scenery made me feel I was in a safari, and at any moment an elephant will be soaring excitedly. The massive green pasture of land spread penetrating the mountains behind the falls, inviting you in to a soundless world. Literally soundless because there is no phone signal once you branch off the gravel road to Kpatawee. Upon arrival you have to pay (100LD) per person for the day. There are no amenities available in the area, if you intend to spend the day, take all that you need (food, games, etc).  They have benches and few huts to sit and relax. However, you need to bring something to cover up, as there are ants lurking around, due the fact the area is not care for frequently.

Once inside you are instantly drawn to the gushing sound of water flowing between rocks. I can attest, the first thing anyone will like to do is to go directly into the water for a swim, except for the few greedy ones among your group who will opt for the foodJ.

Picnic time!

That rock was hot!!!

So beautiful.....

We spend about an hour exploring the Fall. Using different routes to get to the highest peak of the Fall, it was not possible. However, we were able to get high enough to enjoy one of godsend to Liberia. After which we begun to play a game of Ludo, but could not complete as our conversation was foster by the beauty of where we were.

We almost got to the top
The water felt so good, but be careful if you have sensitive skin like me.
(water is dirty)

Ma petit soeur je me manque

They say when you have something you don’t know it's value, until it is gone. With the influx of external forces into Liberia, if we do not start taking care of what we have we might lose it to others. Apart from being a tourist attraction, the force the water flowing down from Kpatawee produces could be utilized to supply electricity to the surrounding towns, maybe all of Gbarnga.

There is a possibility for mass agriculture cooperatives to be developed in the local communities in which  specialization production could commence. Electricity and sustain source of food are two essential commodities that will enable many Liberians to potentially be self-reliant. So, my people tell me why a property own by our government is so under utilize?

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Women Weaving Center of Vonjamah, Lofa County

Mrs. Dorbor giving an interview

It was a sight to see, creativity to admire, a concept unexpectedly stumbled upon, and proudness exuded from our faces to know she was a Liberian. Esther Dorbor grew up with a skill that manifested into a tool for social change. On my way to Vahun, Lofa I stopped in Vonjamah fascinated by a beautiful monument alongside the road.  After a short walk to the monument, I was soon fascinated with what was happening left of the monument. I recognized the act as I remembered visiting a similar site in the Philippines. Compare to what I saw in the Philippine this structure was simply making it more intriguing. It was the simplicity of the structure that captured my attention.  From afar I noticed the women were hard at work, concentrating intensely on the work at hand.

Monument that 1st attracted my attention

A program participant setting up to weave

As we got closer, the products produced by the Women Woven Center of Lofa blew me away.  As I touched the fabric I declared it was the finest texture of cloth I have touch in Liberia thus far! The colors of the fabric were brilliantly combined to make a fabric in Liberia known as the ” Country Cloth”.

Purchasing some of the cloths made that day

Esther Dorbor moved to Vonjamah when she married. She and her husband wanted to do something for their community. They noticed men were leaving their women due to the fact most women could not assist with sustaining the home financially, thus the burden was becoming unbearable for the men.  

Esther's husband asked her if she could teach the women the skill she had learned, that made her self reliant most of her life. Together they started a program to teach local women free of charge how to weave the Country Cloth.  The women have six months to learn, after which they can go out on their own and produce. Due to limited funding, and a large number of participants, students have to quit the program after six months in order for others to participate.  They are currently using funding from previous sales to sustain the program. 

However, their biggest concern is acquiring funding that will enable them to teach the women longer, and host more participants. The " Country Cloth " is only made and produced in Liberia. The fabric can be made into anything from clothing, bags, or use for interior designing. Visit (ARWAY BAGS ) for examples.

My eccentric sister dressing up her pet pillow with hers

Excited with my new accessory !!!

As we move towards a new Liberia, I hope more women choose to be at the front line and not on the side regardless of the difficulties they confront. As women participation is essential to Liberia prosperity. The Women Weaving Center of Vonjamah mass produce, therefore if you want to contact the Women Woven Center of Vonjamah to assist them with their cause, or purchase some beautiful pieces from them they can be reached at (231) 088-069-1849/ (231) 088-685-9608.

Nanas' Lodge

Fishermen preparing to go fishing.

It was a hot sticky day…...Come to think of it pretty much every day in Liberia is hot and sticky. However, the day I went to Nanas’ Lodge the ground seem to exhale heat from the beaming sun reflecting on it. I discovered Nanas' Lodge through word of mouth, and with little to do in Monrovia, I knew I had go for a visit. Described as a place where one can go to experience endless adventures (surfing, boat riding, sailing, camping, etc) How dare I come to Liberia and not experience some adventures.

The good portion of the road.

Nanas' Lodge is located about two hours outside of Monrovia in Robertsport, Capemount.  I was fortunate to have a car, which made the journey less hectic. Too bad driving there was not as smooth. When I went to Nanas’ Lodge the road was not paved at the time, and construction was still being done. Driving there felt like an uncomfortable roller coaster.  From previous trips outside Monrovia I knew not to eat certain food while traveling outside of the city to avoid stomach sickness ( I advised you do the same).

On the way we discovered a little town by the road, with a beautiful Palava hut to sit and relax. The individuals taking care of the place do not charge strangers to sit and use the place.  It is about 20 minutes before you get to Nanas' Lodge.  We packed a picnic basket so it was the ideal spot to stretch out and have a little lunch. It is a nice area on the beach, and if you are lucky you might get to see birds of different kinds flying by wanting to share your food.

After picnic...sleepy time.

One of the caretakers( she insisted we take  picture of her)

Two hours away from Monrovia, we arrived at Nanas’ Lodge, and I was taking away by the beautiful blue sea shinning from the sun beaming on it, endless clean sand to dip your feet into, and most of all a place to SAIL!! I have to say, people exaggerated the services at Nanas' Lodge. I was able to go boat riding only after an hour of the caretakers tying to find a Sailor, surfing was not possible as there was no guide, (plus it was not as popular anymore), sailing (no equipments), and camping was possible (cheaper if you have your own equipments).

We ended the day after few boat tumblings, several accidental drowning (the tides are high, if you are not a good swimmer do not go too far into the sea), and the best part of all, ALL YOU CAN EAT NATURAL ALMOUNDS for free!!!!!!!!!!

Recovering from boat tumbling #1.

Huge rocks at the end of the beach to sunbath or just enjoy the scenery .

End of the day...Look behind you will see the ALMOND trees!!!

It is feasible and cheaper to spend a day at Nanas’ Lodge if you leave Monrovia early in the morning, and depart by 7pm. However, you don’t want to drive too late as you could put yourself at risk of arm robbery, or due to bad roads if something happen help is harder to find.  If you chose to spend the weekend be prepare to spend at least $100 per night for a cabin. I advice if you intend to go, call them ahead of time, so they can arrange to have all the equipments and staff needed for activities you wish to do. Unfortunately, this is the reality for most Liberian business....

Keur Bamboung


I left Liberia at an age which did not allow me to explore my country as much as I would have liked. One of my regrets was not experiencing life outside of Monrovia. Thus, one of my goals before embarking on my practicum was to experience life outside the city in the various countries I explore, I am glad I had the opportunity to discover the beauty of living outside of Dakar, during the process learning about the preservation of our environment.  It was pleasant to see others making an effort to decrease their eco footprint.

From Dakar, it will take about six hours to get to Keur Bambong. You can take a bus from a station called “Station Pompier” in Dakar. From there the bus will take you directly to Toubacouta. If you take the bus, to and from Keur Bamboung the fare is no less than 10,00cfa roundtrip. Once in Toubacouta, you can choose to stay the night for 6000cfa. If not you can go directly to the Keur Bamboung, which is located in an area call Sine Saloume, a three day weekend at Keur Bamboung is 17,000cfa, which include breakfast and dinner. If you chose to stay in Toubacouta for the night, I recommend you stay at the hostel below. The facilities are nice and the host is great!





 



 

The only means of getting to Keur Bamboung is to take a pirogue from Toubacouta (30mins). Keur Bamboung( 221775108013/2215548456) is an Ecolodge, located in a little village call Sine Solume, it is one of the most beautiful places I have visited in my life. The owners were organized, and cognizant of their guests' needs. The Eco lodge is set up as a communal entity, therefore, the proceeds benefit the villagers (owners) and use to maintain the rich prosperity of the environment.

 

 

The camp is built to give guests a sense of village life, but they have modern amenities to ease your worries. Once on the ground, you are able to experience the best nature and the locals have to offer. In accordance with their message of preserving the environment, a donkey transports guests’ belongings from the shore to the camp. All activities are planned according to the guests’ agenda. If you chose not to partake in activities during your stay you won’t be bothered. However, I encourage all to partake in the activities, as it is crucial to understanding the message of the camp. For activities, the cahasave the option of birds watching, canoeing g, tour of the village, etc. The food is amazing (hhhhhmmmmmm)!!!!! However, if you are not a big eater, request that your main course for diner a be downside. It’s a lot of food.

Be aware, on the weekend it is difficult to get a bus directly from Toubacouta back to Dakar. Therefore you can take a bus to Karang or Kalack from Toubacouta, and than take a bus directly to Dakar. Traveling by bus from one city to another requires patience. As the rule is, the bus does not leave until it is full or passengers are willing to pay for the empty seat(s). Although we had to wait for three hours in Karang for the bus to get full it was well worth it!!!! It was a great opportunity to talk to the locals and get to know more about the area, especially if you speak Wolof.

My journey to Keur Bamboung and the recent conferences regarding protecting the environment in Africa prompted me to start thinking about how I can decrease my eco footprint. It seems that those who are taking precautionary steps to cause less harm to the environment, have less capital. Living in a world dominated by capitalists I understand why the preservation of the environment does not seem important, especially when it means acquiring more capital. Given how fast the earth is depleting, I hope we come to the realization that money is not the only thing that makes the world go round. If those with the least resources are trying to conserve and protect the earth, is it fair for those with the most resources to keep destroying mother earth?

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